Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka's illustrious medieval capital, rose to prominence as the foremost city in the land during the 11th century A.D., supplanting the ancient city of Anuradhapura. Anuradhapura had succumbed to plunder and devastation at the hands of invading armies from South India, leaving the land desolate and vulnerable.
The annals of Polonnaruwa are dominated by three influential monarchs whose reigns marked both the city's dazzling ascent and its eventual decline. Despite facing invasion and turmoil in the following centuries, Polonnaruwa retained echoes of its former grandeur and splendor, preserving evidence of its rich history.
Nestled on the eastern shore of the expansive Topa Wewa Lake, also known as Parakrama Samudraya (the Sea of Parakrama), Polonnaruwa boasts a wealth of ancient ruins within its fortified city walls. These include palace structures, clusters of majestic dagobas, temples, and various religious edifices, all testament to the city's former glory. Beyond the city walls, additional historic sites dot the landscape, offering glimpses into Polonnaruwa's storied past.
While many relics excavated from the site, such as the stone lion guarding King Nissanka Malla's palace or the exquisite Hindu bronzes from the Siva Devale Temple, are housed in the National Museum in Colombo, efforts were underway to return key exhibits to Polonnaruwa with the establishment of the Polonnaruwa Visitor Information Centre and its museum in 1998/9. This initiative aimed to reunite these artifacts with the very place where they were unearthed, further enriching the visitor experience and preserving Polonnaruwa's cultural heritage.
Polonnaruwa
Highlights
Monkey Kingdom
Polonnaruwa has recently gained international attention with the release of the Disney documentary film "Monkey Kingdom," which premiered in over 12,000 US cinemas in April 2015. The documentary follows the lives of a troop of wild toque-macaque monkeys, locally known as "Rilaw," with the ancient kingdom of Polonnaruwa serving as the backdrop.
The film showcases Sri Lanka as an exotic destination, rich in natural beauty and heritage sites like Polonnaruwa. By focusing on the monkeys and their behavior in association with Polonnaruwa, the documentary serves as an educational tool, raising awareness among both locals and tourists about the importance of conserving these animals.
Polonnaruwa's architectural marvels and historical significance are portrayed as a national treasure, further enhancing the appeal of the country's tourism industry. The blend of nature and wildlife depicted in the film contributes to the country's efforts to boost tourism.
Directed by Mark Linfield and Alastair Fothergill, renowned for their previous blockbusters such as "Earth" and "Chimpanzee," the documentary aims to shed light on the fascinating species of monkeys and advocate for their conservation. Dr. Wolfgang Dittus, a scientific consultant with extensive experience studying Sri Lanka's macaque monkeys, played a pivotal role in the film's production, assisting in character selection and behavioral interpretation.
A portion of the film's box office proceeds is earmarked for donation to Conservation International, an American nonprofit organization dedicated to environmental protection. Narrated by Emmy award-winning actress Tina Fey, the film's international release coincided with Earth Day, further amplifying its impact.
With the increased popularity garnered by "Monkey Kingdom," it is expected that Polonnaruwa, and by extension Sri Lanka, will become a sought-after tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the globe, particularly from the US.
Parakrama Samudraya, known as the "Sea of Parakrama" in Sinhala, stands as a testament to the engineering prowess of King Parakramabahu the Great, dominating the western flank of the Polonnaruwa district in Sri Lanka. This colossal ancient rainwater reservoir is the largest of its kind on the island, serving as the lifeblood of the agricultural district of Polonnaruwa and its environs.
Spanning an impressive area of 2500 hectares and boasting a capacity of 134 million cubic meters of water, Parakrama Samudraya played a crucial role in sustaining agriculture and livelihoods in the region. Beyond its utilitarian function, the reservoir also influences the climate of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, providing cooling breezes that alleviate the tropical heat.
Nestled in the vicinity of Parakrama Samudraya are the remnants of the King's Council Chamber, attributed to King Nissanka Malla. The pillars of this chamber bear inscriptions detailing the status and titles of various officials of the kingdom, offering valuable insights into the administrative structure of the ancient Polonnaruwa kingdom.
On the southern shores of Parakrama Samudraya and just south of the charming lakeside Rest House stands one of Polonnaruwa's most intriguing monuments: a striking rock-carved statue depicting a man of regal bearing cradling a stack of manuscripts.
This enigmatic statue has sparked considerable debate and speculation among archaeologists, who have yet to reach a definitive conclusion regarding its identity. Standing at an imposing height of 3.5 meters, the sculpture is often attributed to King Parakramabahu the Great, reflecting his renowned patronage of learning and literature.
However, alternative theories propose that the figure may represent the sage Pulasti, after whom the city of Pulastinagara, known in Sinhala as Polonnaruwa, is believed to have been named. Pulastinagara, translating to the "City of Pulasti," highlights the city's historical and cultural significance, further adding to the mystery surrounding this captivating statue.
Palace of King Parakramabahu
Enclosed within ramparts stretching four leagues in length and seven leagues in width, the Royal Citadel of Polonnaruwa unveils a treasure trove of fascinating monuments. Among these, the Palace of King Parakramabahu stands as a testament to grandeur, once towering seven storeys high and adorned with opulent decorations. Despite the passage of time, the remaining walls of the palace display extraordinary thickness, while the intricate drainage system hints at the engineering prowess of its builders.
A short distance away lies the magnificent Royal Bath, known as the Kumara Pokuna, a testament to the sophisticated water management techniques of ancient Sri Lanka. Across from it stands the resplendent Royal Audience Hall, adorned with majestic lion portals, elegant pillars, and a meticulously carved moonstone, offering a glimpse into the regal splendor of the past.
Constructed using techniques reminiscent of the Anuradhapura period but with an increased utilization of lime mortar, the structures of Polonnaruwa exemplify the architectural achievements of their time. This period saw a remarkable advancement in brick construction, allowing for the creation of monumental edifices that pushed the boundaries of architectural innovation.
Potgul Vehera
Located at the southern extremity of the city, just 100 meters south of the statue honoring King Parakramabahu and outside the Royal Garden of Nandana Uyana, lies the Potgul Vehera, also known as the Library Monastery. At its heart stands a central square terrace, home to the main structure—a circular shrine or library where sacred texts were once housed. Surrounding this central monument are four smaller dagobas, adding to the site's architectural splendor.
One of the most remarkable features of Potgul Vehera is its superior acoustics, suggesting that the library may have also served as an auditorium on certain occasions. Here, Buddhist scriptures would have been recited, teachings expounded, and blessings chanted—a practice known as "Pirith." Similar structures, known as Potgul Viharas or libraries, with comparable functions can be found in various Buddhist monuments across the region, underscoring their significance in the dissemination of knowledge and spiritual teachings.
Thuparama
Thuparama, an exquisite brick-built gedige or vaulted shrine, stands proudly in a remarkable state of preservation within the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. Serving as the oldest image house in Polonnaruwa, Thuparama traces its origins back to the reign of King Vijayabahu the First (1055-1110 A.D.).
Constructed atop a brick base approximately one meter in height, the shrine features three projections that once held an image of Buddha, though today only a stack of bricks remains in their place. The stone images housed within Thuparama are relics from the Anuradhapura period, adding to the historical and cultural significance of this venerable structure.
Vatadage
Vatadage, a circular relic house, exudes a remarkable elegance and beauty that are seldom found even among the ancient structures of Sri Lanka. Encircling the outer perimeter of the structure are stone pillars, each intricately adorned with tasteful ornamentation, featuring delicately patterned four-petaled flowers.
Leading to the entrance of the Vatadage are exquisitely carved access stairs located at the cardinal points. At the summit of each flight stands a Buddha statue sculpted in stone, adding a sense of reverence and spirituality to the sacred space. Moreover, Vatadage is adorned with intricately carved moonstones and guard stones, further enhancing its architectural splendor and historical significance.
Hatadage and Atadage
Hatadage and Atadage, both sacred tooth relic temples in Polonnaruwa, stand as remarkable testaments to the religious devotion and architectural prowess of their respective builders, King Vijayabahu and King Nissankamalla. Dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries, these temples served as sanctuaries for the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha, symbolizing the spiritual heart of the kingdom.
King Vijayabahu, renowned for liberating Sri Lanka from Dravidian invaders, established his capital in Polonnaruwa and commissioned the construction of the Atadage. This temple was specifically designed to house the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic, signifying their immense religious significance. The ground floor of the Atadage served as an image house, displaying revered representations of Buddhist deities.
Later, King Nissankamalla further embellished Polonnaruwa's religious landscape by erecting the Hatadage, a grander version of the Atadage. This magnificent structure also housed the Sacred Tooth Relic and Bowl Relic, underscoring the enduring reverence for these sacred artifacts. The Hatadage features a masterfully carved doorway leading to its image house, displaying the skillful craftsmanship of its builders.
Although time has weathered the walls and inscriptions of these temples, their historical and spiritual significance endures, serving as enduring reminders of Polonnaruwa's rich cultural heritage and deep religious devotion.
Gal Viharaya
Gal Viharaya, also known as the Rock Temple, stands as a magnificent testament to ancient monastic architecture, boasting a remarkable collection of colossal Buddha statues hewn from a single granite boulder. Among these sculptures, the towering standing Buddha statue, standing at an impressive height of 7 meters (23 feet), commands attention with its majestic presence.
Adjacent to the standing Buddha is an awe-inspiring reclining Buddha statue, stretching an imposing 14 meters (46 feet) in length. The intricately carved details, such as the head resting gently on the right palm and the left hand gracefully extended along the body, imbue the sculpture with a sense of serene poise and balance. The subtle indentations on the pillow, bearing the weight of the head, and the nuanced positioning of the left leg breathe life into this remarkable work of art.
Nearby, the standing figure of Buddha exudes a palpable sense of compassion and empathy towards all sentient beings, as interpreted by archaeologist Dr. Senerath Paranavitana. The pose and facial expression of Buddha convey a profound message of solace and understanding for those enduring suffering.
Completing this extraordinary ensemble is the seated Buddha statue situated at the southern end, adorned with an intricately carved backrest in an elegant arch design. The craftsmanship displayed in front of the seat further enhances the spiritual ambiance, inviting visitors to contemplate the timeless teachings of Buddha in this sacred sanctuary.
Tivanka Image House
The Tivanka image house, situated 400 meters north of the Lotus Pond, derives its name from the towering Buddha Statue housed within, which is characterized by three distinct bends in its form. Aptly named "Tivanka," meaning "three bends" in Sinhalese, the Buddha statue exhibits bends at the knees, waist, and shoulders, lending it a unique and striking appearance. Although the head and neck of the Buddha statue have since deteriorated, the architectural marvel of its thrice-bent posture remains a testament to the craftsmanship of its creators.
Both the inner and outer walls of the image house are adorned with exquisite decorative elements. The outer walls feature ornate depictions of lions, ganas, and dwarfs, showcasing intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail. Meanwhile, the inner walls house masterful murals that serve as true artistic treasures.
The murals on the inner walls, dating back to the 12th century, portray scenes from the tales of the previous lives of Buddha. While the vibrancy of these frescoes has faded over time, they continue to captivate viewers with their depiction of a rich tapestry of Buddhist narratives. Scholars have noted that these paintings exhibit a harmonious blend of popular and classical artistic styles, reflecting the cultural and artistic influences prevalent during the era in which they were created.
Lankatilaka
At the heart of the Alahana Pirivena lies the majestic remnants of the Lankatilaka shrine, a testament to the architectural grandeur of Buddhist shrines during the 12th century. This imposing brick structure once soared to great heights, boasting towering walls reaching up to 55 feet. Adorned with intricate carvings and embellishments, including stucco figures and architectural models, the Lankatilaka shrine stood as one of the most splendid Buddhist shrines in Asia during its time.
Central to the shrine's magnificence is its Image House, a remarkable example of a vaulted shrine known as a gedige. Within this sacred space once resided a colossal statue of Buddha, towering over worshippers with its awe-inspiring presence. Although the head of the statue has since been lost to the ravages of time, its towering form would have measured an impressive 41 feet in height.
The exterior walls of the shrine are adorned with exquisite stucco figures and decorative elements, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail of its creators. Notably, one of the most remarkable features of the shrine is the exquisite figure adorning the right balustrade, believed to represent Nagini, the female counterpart of Nagaraja. While Naga images are commonly found in the guard stones of cultural monuments across Sri Lanka, the inclusion of such imagery in the balustrades of the Lankatilaka shrine is a unique and notable feature, adding to the shrine's allure and mystique.
Rankoth Vehera
Rankoth Vehera, erected under the patronage of King Nissankamalla, stands proudly as the largest dagoba in Polonnaruwa, a testament to the architectural prowess of its time. This monumental structure pays homage to the traditions of early stupas built in Anuradhapura, serving as a beacon of Buddhist devotion and reverence.
Measuring an impressive 550 feet in girth, Rankoth Vehera dominates the landscape of the Alahana Pirivena monastery complex, drawing pilgrims and visitors from far and wide. Surrounding the grand dagoba, one finds a harmonious arrangement of image houses and flower altars nestled within the expansive sand terrace encircling the stupa.
At each cardinal point of the dagoba, towering Vahalkadasa, or front entrance enclosures, constructed of sturdy brick, beckon devotees with four flights of steps leading to the sacred interior. These entrances serve as portals to spiritual contemplation and worship, inviting visitors to partake in the sanctity of the site.
Inscribed upon a stone-seat in front of the dagoba, the words bear witness to King Nissankamalla's meticulous oversight of the construction of Rankoth Vehera, underscoring the monarch's dedication to the project. Additionally, an inscription on the platform to the south recounts the king's reverent acts of worship from a nearby pavilion, further cementing the dagoba's significance in the annals of Sri Lankan history and spirituality.
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